Two great Wines from Mamete Prevostini..

- July 23, 2019

Being a dedicated ‘Barolophile’, I have seen that demand and appreciation for Nebbiolo has skyrocketed the last ten years. As prices have risen for the best Barolos and Barbarescos (the most famous Nebbiolo wines) wine-lovers have looked out for alternatives, but Nebbiolo, unlike many other grapes, has never really prospered outside (northwestern) Italy. The Nebbiolo grape has long been associated with the Piedmont region, but alpine regions like Valtellina in Lombardy offer an interesting alternative.

Valtellina

Within the Valtellina zone, where Nebbiolo is known as ”Chiavennasca”, the wines are defined by two basic quality levels. The base is the Valtellina, which generally tends to be light-bodied and tannic. A distinct step up, with richer textures and more complex flavors, is the Valtellina Superiore. Valtellina also produces ”Sforzato”, a powerful Amarone-style wine made of 100% dried grapes for added body and concentration.

Valtellina is also one of the most dramatic vineyard landscapes in the world, and could be compared to the terraced vineyard plots of e.g. Germany’s Mosel. I read somewhere that if they were connected end to end, the walls of the terraces would form a continuous wall 2,400 kilometers long and that only grapes planted on the south facing terraces, preferably with a western aspect, have a chance of ripening.

Mamete Prevostini

Mamete Prevostini is one of the lead producers of Nebbiolo in Lombardia. Mamete’s Nebbiolo has an elegance (and femininity) to it, typical of the Nebbiolo from the region. They also produce a delicious Sforzato (see below).

Since 1995, Mamete Prevostini the grandson has run the estate and recently completed construction of a new cellar — The Casa Clima House. A cellar very special with eco-friendly terms and production in a natural vision with a total respect of the environment.

The new CasaClima Cellar — situated in Postalesio

I’ve had the opportunity to taste two different wines - Sommarovina and Corte di Cama (Sforzato).

2015 Sommarovina Valtellina Superiore Sassella D.O.C.G.

This was a very nice Nebbiolo, light colored with intoxicating aromatics, and a surprising balmy and rich bouquet, concentrated fruit with hints of plum, licorice and perhaps also with slight nuances of violets. Silky ripe tannins with typical acidity. (Wine Spectator gave this wine 91 points for the vintage of 2009.) A great wine in summary…

2015 Sommarovina Valtellina Superiore Sassella D.O.C.G.

Producer Notes:
Deep ruby red color with garnet shades. Fresh fragrance with hints of red fruits, hibiscus and rose supported by intense balsamic and spicy sensations. The taste is warm, persistent and elegant with a pleasant ending of licorice and almond, confirming it as a wine of character, austere, compact.

2014 Corte di Cama Sforzato di Valtellina D.O.C.G.

This bottle initially appeared a bit angular and tight on the nose, but it soon revealed it’s pure and delicate Nebbiolo character. This wine was full-bodied with a high level of alcohol (15.5%). While still young, it showed real ‘elegance’ and a balanced acidity with rather ripe tannins. We found cherries, licorice (or anise..), a spectrum of different spices, typical dried fruit with hints of both vanilla and raisins — and perhaps also hazelnuts? A beautiful wine that will be stunning after another 5+ years in the cellar…

2014 Corte di Cama Sforzato di Valtellina D.O.C.G.

Producer Notes:
A dark garnet-red color alongside orange overtones. Pronounced varietal and persistent aromas, polished spicy edges of vanilla and hints of dried fruit and flowers. It has a warm, dry, silky, soft and persistent flavor, with lingering sensation of jam. This is a wine of great delicacy. Garnet red color with orange highlights. Pronounced aroma with elegant spicy notes of vanilla and hints of fruit in liquer and dried flowers . Warm flavour, dry and persistent with a beautiful freshness.

We had the Sommarovina with some starters and the Sforzato was accomanied by Saltimbocca (Italian for jumps in the mouth), an Italian dish made of veal wrapped with prosciutto and sage, one of the most brilliant Italian dishes ever created (IMO).